Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

An extraordinary journey which brings humanity’s most genteel era back to life

Once upon a time, travel was not a necessity but a luxury, not merely to be endured in relative comfort but savoured, as one would a delightful outing or fascinating dinner party.

The journey was often more sumptuous than the destination itself and passengers were just as impressive to behold as the classical buildings and pristine landscapes that didn’t whizz by, but, rather, drifted along at a leisurely pace.

The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express was present for the Golden Age of elegant travel, without a doubt having hosted an array of high society and prominent novelists of the time, whose works always leave readers with a hint of nostalgia.

Though it didn’t operate in its entirety during the Roaring 20s, its carriages once belonged to historical transportation the likes of Le Train Bleu and the Rome Express. Their collection and restoration to their former glory and glamour by founder James B Sherwood in 1977 has resulted in an inconceivably handsome locomotive which seems to have traversed more than one hundred years of time to arrive at the evocative “Gare de Calais-Ville” in Northern France.

The journey begins not with the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, but with a meticulously restored British Pullman, in the station of London Victoria. To board such a historic train doesn’t merely feel like entering another time; it encapsulates the promise of discovering a new world where glamour is found in every detail and there is simply no place for the mundanity of everyday life.

The moment a passenger steps off of the platform and onto the British Pullman which will traverse the distance between London and Folkestone, the conductor’s white-gloved helping hand carries an unspoken assurance that every second that awaits will be an adventure.

Each carriage exterior portrays its original name in gold lettering; the Ibis car is the oldest addition to this train, and one of the most lavishly decorated. Open-plan saloons feature smoothly lacquered wooden panelling, velvet curtains frame every window and the plush Pullman seats remain, to this day, some of the most comfortable in locomotive history.

A decadent three-course brunch accompanies quaint views of the English countryside until the arrival at Folkestone, followed by a brief channel crossing via coach to “Gare de Calais-Ville”.  

Stepping onto the train platform feels like a much-anticipated homecoming, with a line-up of smartly-dressed conductors welcoming passengers in front of the majestic, navy-blue and gold-inlaid Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.

Each visitor is personally greeted by an assigned attendant and shown to their sleeper compartment, which awaits behind one of the mahogany doors lining the sleeping-car corridor. A glass of champagne is offered as guests take in well-polished panelling and an inviting window from which to immerse themselves in the passing scenery; those who don’t wish to unplug can find two European-style sockets tucked out of view.

As the longest leg of the journey commences, guests are invited to enjoy lunch, and then dinner, in one of the three opulent restaurant compartments. The Cote d’Azure car is adorned with light-blue Art-Deco touches and accentuated by exquisite Lalique glass panels, elaborately engraved with visions of maidens holding grapes to symbolise the remarkable pull of the French Riviera. 

Just beyond, the Bar Car offers complete immersion into the world of Art Nouveau; a jazz musician pours his heart and soul into timeless pieces on the grand piano, waiters weave expertly between impeccably-attired patrons as if taking part in an intricate dance and passengers engage in sophisticated dialogue. This gives way to sparkling banter as the artisanal cocktails flow, the night flies by and the train chugs unhurriedly across the rural plains of France.   

Being on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is like entering an elite society, where every passenger is dressed to the nines and one can’t help but half-expect to run into Audrey Hepburn, Ernest Hemingway or Duke Ellington; such is the timelessness of this train.

A mutual journey brings passengers together to share discussions about art, philosophy, and the unavoidable reference to Agatha Christie’s famous novel which took place in a setting not unlike this one. 

As the night nears its end, passengers discover that their compartments have been converted into bedrooms. A porcelain washstand with hot running water has been revealed in the corner, dressing gowns, slippers and Michel Cluizel chocolates await and the plush couch has now been all but transformed into two bunk beds, which enfold guests like soft cocoons and offer blissful sleep to the train’s ceaseless, smooth vibration. 

Of course, some passengers will be making their way back to their unbelievably luxurious Grand Suites, time capsules into the extravagance of the previous century. Each of these suites is aptly named after one of the magnificent capital cities which are traversed by the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, featuring a lush double bed, a marble en-suite complete with a shower, free-flowing champagne and a personal steward available around the clock. 

The morning greets passengers with vistas of the Zürichsee, a breathtaking natural lake near Zurich, and an excellent continental breakfast served in each compartment as the train passes briefly through Liechtenstein.

Crossing the Brenner Pass to Verona offers stunning views of verdant, rolling hills and valleys of Italy, and an excellent three-course lunch is the final onboard experience as the train pulls in to the Venice Santa Lucia Station. Disembarking is definitely a bittersweet farewell; not only to the wonderful ambience of the train and truly attentive staff, but to the bygone ideals of an era which was brought briefly back to life for the duration of an extraordinary journey.